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I found with joy that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

14 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic cloves, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a container. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.